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Where to go

Destinations we know inside out

Honest notes on each place — when to go, how long to stay and what is genuinely worth your time.

Srinagar, Kashmir Kashmir Srinagar Dal Lake, shikara evenings, Mughal gardens and the old city — the natural base for any Kashmir trip. 5 journeys Gulmarg, Kashmir Kashmir Gulmarg Alpine meadow in summer, one of India’s best ski slopes in winter, and a gondola with a serious view. 1 journey Pahalgam, Kashmir Kashmir Pahalgam River valleys, pine forest and the trailhead for Kashmir’s best-known treks. 1 journey Sonamarg, Kashmir Kashmir Sonamarg The meadow of gold — glaciers, alpine rivers and the gateway to Ladakh. 1 journey Doodhpathri, Kashmir Kashmir Doodhpathri A wide, quiet meadow an hour from Srinagar that most itineraries still miss. Explore Gurez Valley, Kashmir Kashmir Gurez Valley A remote border valley of wooden villages, the Kishanganga river and Habba Khatoon peak. 1 journey Yusmarg, Kashmir Kashmir Yusmarg Pine-ringed meadows and easy walking, an hour south-west of Srinagar. Explore Leh, Ladakh Ladakh Leh Ladakh’s capital — monasteries, a walkable old town, and the base for everything beyond. 2 journeys Nubra Valley, Ladakh Ladakh Nubra Valley Cold desert dunes, double-humped camels and the green ribbon of the Shyok river. Explore Pangong Lake, Ladakh Ladakh Pangong Lake A 134 km high-altitude lake that changes colour through the day. Explore Khardung La, Ladakh Ladakh Khardung La One of the world’s highest motorable passes, on the road from Leh to Nubra. Explore Tso Moriri, Ladakh Ladakh Tso Moriri A quieter, higher lake in the Changthang plateau, well away from the crowds. Explore Amarnath, Pilgrimage Pilgrimage Amarnath The cave shrine at 3,888 m, reached from Pahalgam or Baltal during the annual yatra. 2 journeys Vaishno Devi, Pilgrimage Pilgrimage Vaishno Devi The hill shrine above Katra, reached by a 12 km walk, pony, palki or helicopter. Explore Katra, Pilgrimage Pilgrimage Katra The base town for Vaishno Devi, with the registration counters and most hotels. 1 journey

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